Cyprinon or Henna Flower Perfume

Ingredients

Oil of Unripe Olives
ὀμφάκινον
9 170 g
28 pounds
water
13 750 g
42 pounds
aspalathos
1 800 g
5 pounds 6 ounces
calamus
2 130 g
6 pounds 6 ounces
myrrh
σμύρνα
330 g
1 pound
cardamom
1 230 g
3 pounds 9 ounces
wine
enough to soak the myrrh
enough to soak the myrrh
cinnamon
for mixing at the end
for mixing at the end

Instructions

1
Stypsis and preparation of henna perfume. One part washed oil of unripe olives (omphakinon), one and a half parts rainwater. Pour some over the oil, mix some with the aromatic substances to be added.
κυπρίνου στύψις καὶ σκευασία· ἐλαίου ὀμφακίνου πεπλυμένου μέρος ἕν, ὕδατος ὀμβρίου μέρος ἓν ἥμισυ, τὸ μὲν ἐπίχει τῷ ἐλαίῳ τὸ δὲ φύρα ἐν τοῖς ἐμβληθησομένοις ἀρώμασιν. (50,21 - 51,2 Wellmann)
The ratio of 2 oil to 3 water does not tell us how much we will need. We end up needing 28 pounds per infusion, but whether this is how much we begin with here is unclear. Water's function may be to control the eventual temperature of the oil during heating, in addition to aiding transfer of compounds from the dry ingredients to the oil.
2
Then, take five and a half pounds of aspalathos, six and a half pounds of calamus, one pound of myrrh, three pounds and nine ounces of cardamom, and nine pounds and five ounces of oil. Chop the aspalathos and soak it in water. Add it and boil together with the oil until they boil up together.
εἶτα λαβὼν ἀσπαλάθου λίτρας πέντε ἥμισυ, καλάμου λίτρας ἓξ ἥμισυ, σμύρνης λίτραν μίαν, καρδαμώμου λίτρας τρεῖς οὐγγίας ἐννέα, ἐλαίου λίτρας ἐννέα οὐγγίας πέντε, τὸν ἀσπάλαθον κόψας καὶ βρέξας ἐν ὕδατι ἐμβαλὼν ἕψε μετὰ τοῦ ἐλαίου, ἕως ἂν συναναζέσῃ. (51,3 - 7 Wellmann)
It is not said explicitly whether the mixture should be left to cool after it is boiled together, but the phrase "ἕως ἂν συναναζέσῃ" suggests it. Likely it would be taken off the heat, and the aspalathos removed (see next step).
3
Soak the myrrh in aged fragrant wine, combine the chopped calamus with the myrrh, and once you have removed the aspalathos, add the calamus mixture.
τὴν δὲ σμύρναν διεὶς οἴνῳ παλαιῷ εὐώδει, τὸν κάλαμον κεκομμένον συναναφύρα μετὰ τῆς σμύρνης καὶ ἐξελὼν τὸν ἀσπάλαθον ἔμβαλε τὸ φύραμα τοῦ καλάμου. (51,7 - 9 Wellmann)
The combination of myrrh and calamus is common in styptic recipes, but here the amount of wine is not stated. Presumably the calamus has already been soaked in water like the aspalathos, but this is not stated, The mixture is heated again until it boils (see next step).
4
Once this boils together, remove from the heat, strain the oil from the bronze vessel, and pour it over cardamom that has been chopped and soak with the rest of the water. Stir it using a spathe until it cools, without pausing.
ὅταν δὲ καὶ μετὰ τούτου ζέσῃ, καθελὼν ἀπήθησον τοῦ χαλκοῦ τὸ ἔλαιον καὶ κατάχει κατὰ τοῦ καρδαμώμου κεκομμένου καὶ πεφυραμένου τῷ λοιπῷ ὕδατι καὶ κίνει σπάθῃ, ἕως ἂν ψυγῇ, μὴ διαλείπων. (51,9 - 12 Wellmann)
The vessel used is specified here as a cauldron (χαλκός), the word strictly means 'copper' and (later) 'bronze.' It is a question whether the cardamom would be used as pods or as the seeds.
5
Then, after straining the oil, add to twenty-eight pounds of oil forty-six pounds and eight ounces of henna flower. Let it steep and strain through a sieve. If you want more, add a similar amount of fresh flowers, straining again, whether you want to do a double or triple infusion. For it will become stronger.
εἶτα ἀπηθήσας τὸ ἔλαιον ἔμβαλε εἰς τὰς εἴκοσιν ὀκτὼ τοῦ ἐλαίου λίτρας ἄνθους κύπρου λίτρας τεσσαράκοντα ἓξ οὐγγίας ὀκτώ, ἐάσας τε ἀποβραχῆναι ἐξίπωσον διὰ σφυρίδος. ἐὰν δὲ πλείω θέλῃς, τοῦ νεαροῦ ἄνθους τὸ ἴσον ἐμβαλὼν πλῆθος ὁμοίως ἐξίπου, ἐάν τε δίβροχον ἐάν τε τρίβροχον βούλῃ ποιεῖν· δυναμικώτερον γὰρ γίνεται. (51,13 - 18 Wellmann)
The ratio by weight is 5 pounds of flowers for every 3 pounds of oil. The steeping time is not given, but other recipes will call for one day. Multiple infusions are common.
6
One should select what is pleasant and has a striking fragrance. Some also mix in cinnamon.
ἐκλέγεσθαι δὲ δεῖ τὸ χρηστὸν καὶ μετʼ εὐωδίας πληκτικόν, ἔνιοι δὲ καὶ κινάμωμον μίσγουσιν. (51,18 - 19 Wellmann)

Source

Dioscorides, De materia medica, 1.55.1-3, ed. Wellmann